{Keyka Lou Patterns}

Seam Allowance Questions

This summer I'm going back and sprucing up some of my older patterns so they are formatted the same as the newer ones and just generally trying to improve them where I can.  Every pattern I've made has been through at least a few changes over time.  The questions people ask are often very helpful in figuring out what needs a little tweaking. 

A couple people have overlooked the seam allowance in the general info section, so I'm trying to make it more obvious and thought I might run two seam allowance questions by you...

1. Do you like using the edge of the presser foot as the seam allowance or would you rather it were shown as a specific measurement (1/4" or 3/8")?

One of the things you may have noticed with my patterns is that I almost always use the "edge of the presser foot" as the allowance.  This is not a standard allowance in the sewing world, but it is such an accurate and easy seam gauge to follow that I'm reluctant to change it to a specific measurement. 

The standard presser foot on most machines is roughly the same size.  Of the four machines in my house the standard presser feet vary in width by 1/8".  But because they are not all exactly the same, using the edge of the presser foot as the allowance means the pattern user is sewing anywhere from 1/4"-3/8" depending on the machine. 

The other thing I like about the edge of the presser foot is it easily translates between the US customary units of measurement and the metric system without having to provide both specific measurements.  I'm working on adding centimeters to the patterns, but must admit the metric system is a little bit baffling to me since we don't use it here in the US.  All my patterns are designed using inches, so sometimes I have to round off the centimeters.  Which leads me to my next question...

2. What is imprinted on the throat plate of sewing machines sold in countries that use the metric system? 

I'm assuming it must be millimeters.  I would love to see a photo if anyone has a minute to snap one and email it to me or post it somewhere online. 

Here is what mine looks like:

P.S. Does the metric system use half centimeters????  Sometimes I show them as 12.5cm, but maybe that makes no sense?

Coming Soon...

This pattern is almost done!  Check my shop next week or sign up for the email list (see upper left hand column) and I'll send you a note when it is available. 

Finding Fabric by Color Range on Etsy

Mwendas, who has a lovely etsy fabric shop, posted in the etsy forums about this neat site for finding fabric by color on etsy.  It is pretty addictive to just keep clicking on the color ranges and looking at more and more fabric.  Visit morecloth.com to check it out.

 
BJ Lantz Freshaire Tossed Floral in Blue
available at Fabric Closet


Aqua Birds on a Wire
available at Scarlet Fig


Rosie Dot in Blue from the Darla Collection by Tanya Whelan
available at Fresh-Squeezed Fabrics


Woodland Wonderland by Jay McCarroll
available at Fabric Palooza

Protecting Magnetic Snaps from Scratches

It is easy to scratch magnetic snaps if you have some machine sewing to do after they are inserted.  All it takes is one drag across your machine plate to add a few scratches. 

They sometimes aren't perfect to begin with and will get scratched a bit over time just from use, but if you are selling finished goods you will want to keep them in the best shape possible for your customer by not adding any additional imperfections. 

To protect the snap cover it with a medium weight fabric scrap or batting scrap using two pins to hold the scrap in place while you finish sewing.  This usually only needs to be done on the female snap half for the Curvy Clutch, Box Wallet, Business Card Wallet & Pyramid Pouch patterns (or any other project where the snap will pass over the machine plate). 

Remember to make sure the pins won't get in the way of your machine needle...:0] 

Fruity Fabric at Etsy

Etsy really is one of the best places to find print fabric.  Here are some fabrics I found by searching for "fruit" in the supplies category fabric section:

Timeless Treasures Fabric - Apple (Cream) available at A Fabric Outlet

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Carnival of Fruits in Dark Blue available at Mwendas

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Elephants and Apples Cotton Canvas available at Pick a Petal

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Morning Call Breakfast in Vintage available at Stitch Craft

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FAQ - What is a PDF Sewing Pattern?

A common question people ask is "what is a PDF pattern?".  So this is an informational post for anyone who isn't quite sure what all this PDF pattern stuff is about... 

So what is this PDF pattern thing?

A PDF sewing pattern is a sewing pattern you buy online and is sent to by email. Depending on where you purchase the pattern it will either come to you as an email attachment or a link to a page where you would open the document and then save it to your computer. 

PDF patterns are also sometimes referred to as ebooks & epatterns (as in electronic book/electronic pattern). 

What is so great about PDF patterns?

Probably the biggest benefit is convenience.  You can order your pattern without leaving home and it arrives quickly--if not almost instantly.  Then you can save your copy, print it out and get busy sewing.  You will also be able to retrieve the document later for reprinting if necessary.

Another nice thing is the variety.  Lots of independent designers are making patterns available for all sorts of adorable and fun things to make. The etsy pattern category is probably at least 50% PDF patterns.  Most patterns are for sewing, crochet & knitting. But you can also find patterns for beaded cuffs, embroidery, and a variety of other crafty endeavors.

Because you print them at home smaller items are best suited for PDF sewing patterns. Some pattern makers have designs for larger items but you may need to tape the pattern pieces together or enlarge the pattern.  Read the pattern description to see if the pattern requires a lot of intervention on your part.

Are the pattern pieces full size? 

If a pattern needs to be enlarged the description *should* indicate enlarging is necessary.  I say should because I can't control how other pattern makers describe their patterns. My patterns do not need to be enlarged, but some pieces might need to be taped at one joint or will be half pieces that will need to be placed on a fold for cutting.  The instructions will clearly indicate where the pieces should be taped and/or placed on a fold. 

What does the PDF acronym mean?

PDF stands for Portable Document Format, which is the file type.  PDF is the ideal format because the software to view the file is easy to find and generally comes pre-installed on most computers these days.  If it isn't installed the software for the reader is free to download. 

PDF files also give the author control over how the document displays to the end user and they aren't easily changed by the end user. 

What do I need to use a PDF sewing pattern?

• PDF Reader - Adobe Reader is most popular. More about this in a minute...

• Printer - You will print the instructions and pattern pieces at home. Most PDF sewing patterns come with photos for the instruction steps rather than the traditional diagrams of printed patterns, so having a color printer is ideal but not mandatory.  Even in black and white the photos should still be clear enough for you to get the idea.  If your computer is in the same room as your sewing machine, or can be brought to your sewing room, you can also follow along with the instructions right on your computer and save some paper and ink. 

How do I know if I have a PDF Reader on my computer?
Most newer computers come with some sort of PDF reader program already loaded.  To check to see if you have the reader click the link below.  If the document opens (give it a few seconds) and you can read the text and see the image then you are all set up. 

Download PDF Test Document

If that didn't open for you or you received a message asking you what program to use to open the document you need to install the reader.  To download a free copy of Adobe Reader go here and click download and follow the prompts:

http://get.adobe.com/reader/

Alright I'm all set up--what now?

Find your pattern and buy it!  If you purchase one of my patterns here is what happens:

1. You buy the pattern on etsy and submit payment through PayPal. 

2. When I log onto my computer (I do check several times a day) I will see you have ordered a pattern. Once your payment is received I go into my email and send you the pattern as an attachment to an email message.  I send patterns within 24-hours of receipt of payment and so do most other etsy sellers. 

3. After sending you the pattern I send you a "conversation" on etsy letting you know it has been sent and that if there are any problems to please contact me. 

3. You check your email and see my message.  If you don't see it your email program has probably decided I'm a spammer and has thrown the message away or sent it to your "junk" or "spam" folder.  Check your spam or junk folder and if it isn't there send me an email or etsy conversation and let me know it needs to be resent.  This doesn't happen all that often but when it does I resend the email and send you a download link in an etsy conversation.  If my email still doesn't arrive you can go to the download link and open the document and save it to your computer.

4. Click on my email message and the pattern will be attached. Open the document(s) by clicking twice on the title of the document. 

5. Save a copy of the pattern on your computer.

6. Print out your pattern and start sewing!

    

New Pattern - Belted Tote Bag

Yesterday I finished my newest pattern for the Belted Tote Bag. 

When I moved to my neighborhood two years ago it was really the first time I could walk to everything I might need--two grocery stores, hardware store, library, second hand stores, several coffee shops, numerous restaurants, banks, etc.  I quickly become pretty fond of the classic tote bag for being small but effective when you will be out doing a bit of shopping.  Even if they are smaller you can get quite a bit of stuff in one and still make it home without cursing yourself for buying too much and giving yourself grocery bag cramps in your biceps.

So this bag is my take on the basic tote bag.  I added some skinny darts at the bottom corners and then cinched up the top with gathers and a cute belt. 

My mom came to visit a few weeks ago and of course we went fabric shopping!  I took along my Belted Tote and it received a few compliments while out and about.  It also nicely held two yards of fabric from Cool Cottons and one yard from Bolt (plus wallet, keys, etc.). 

Photographing Your Products

Privacy Luggage Tag - Check it out in my shop!

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Making the change to allow items made from my patterns to be sold online opens up a lot of new possibilities for information I can share to help your store be a success. 

I will add some posts about taking and editing your photographs.  This is one area that most people--myself included--can always continue to improve.  I'm by no means an expert but I'll share what I know and break it down into smaller posts because there is quite a bit of info on the subject and neither of us need to be overwhelmed. 

Photographs are one of the three main ingredients in a successful etsy shop so this is important stuff!   The other two are descriptions and having a good product.  We'll talk about the second two later.

For now here is some basic info you need to get started:

1. Digital Camera - You need one.  I use an HP Photosmart R817 with 5.1 Megapixels.  It is about three years old and other than replacing the battery once I've had no problems. 

The cameras available now have more megapixels so whatever you get it will probably be technically better than mine.  The etsy forum section has many posts about camera recommendations.  Here are a few:

http://www.etsy.com/forums_thread.php?thread_id=6134651
http://www.etsy.com/forums_thread.php?thread_id=6032978
http://www.etsy.com/forums_thread.php?thread_id=5753637
http://www.etsy.com/forums_thread.php?thread_id=5578973

2. Install Hardware & Software - Your camera will come with a CD to install the hardware and some basic editing software.  Follow the instructions that came with your camera and install the hardware and probably the software--read the next section to understand the "probably" part.

3. About that Software - Whatever software comes with your camera may not do all the things you need it to do to spruce up your photos.  At a minimum you need the ability to crop, resize and adjust the lighting. 

I use Adobe Photoshop Elements version 3.0.  Yeah, I'm way behind on the version here too (most current is 7.0), but it still works just fine.  You can sometimes find older version of Elements on ebay for around $100 or less, or you can buy the most up to date version directly from Adobe.  It is worth the investment and something you will use all the time.  

There are also a few free sites like Google's Picassa.  Gimp and picnik are two others I often hear people mention.  I've never used any of these so I can't offer advice here, but from what I understand they can do the three main things (crop, resize, adjust lighting).   

Whatever you decide to do about software make sure a photo editing program is installed on your computer and if possible set your software choice as the default editing program.  This will generally mean that your software program of choice will automatically open when photos are transferred from your camera to your computer.  If you can't figure this out it isn't a big deal.  You can always save your photos and then go to the software program and manually open them.

4. Take Some Photos - Snap a few pictures of something.  These can just be practice shots so it doesn't matter what you photograph. I'll talk about the actual photography in another post.  

5. Transfer the Photos - Now you need to get the photos out of your camera and into your computer.  Your camera came with a usb cord or a docking station with an attached usb cord.  Make sure that is attached to both your camera and computer and turn on the camera.  Photos will probably begin downloading.  If not consult your camera manual and look for the section on "downloading" or "transferring" and follow those instructions. 

6. Save the Photos - Save them somewhere you can find them!  This is the most important part and it really doesn't matter where they get saved as long as you can find it later.  Setting up a file for your photos under "my computer" if there isn't one there already is probably a good idea.  Save them there.

In the next post I'll talk about opening and cropping the photos. 

Possible Pattern?

Last week I made a sales receipt book and I'd like to make the pattern but I'm not sure whether it is something people would be interested in making.   It takes me about two weeks to make a pattern from idea to finished pattern, so I need to be careful about where I invest my time. 

The receipt book was designed to hold a sales receipt book and then it has one zippered pocket for cash and two additional pockets for "other stuff"...whatever that might be.  I think it would also make a nice travel organizer to hold boarding passes, etc. 

For the people who buy my patterns to make things to sell I want to have some unique patterns so they can stock their stores with things people want/need and aren't finding elsewhere.  But at the same time making a pattern for something so specific could either be a great idea or a great big flop. 

So would you be interested in a pattern for something like this?

Pixie Clutch - Pattern Mod for Pixie Handbag

My desk is a mess and every once in a while I get so tired of it that I clean it up--temporarily.  When I do tidy up a bit I always come across well intentioned but never quite completed projects like this one...turning the Pixie Handbag into a clutch. 

This morning I whipped one up and just as suspected it sure is cute!  To make this use the small pattern pieces and take 1" off the top edge of piece B and then leave the straps off.  Super simple.  By top edge I mean the edge where you gather the fabric and attach it to piece A. 

The fabric used is from Moda's Wonderland by Momo collection.  The print name is Tweedle Dee I believe. 

Happy sewing!